...The river bluffs still continue to get lower and the plains leveler and more extensive; the timber on the river increases in quantity.... killed 6 Elk 2 buffale 2 Mule deer and a bear.... the bear was very near catching Drewyer; it also pursued Charbono who fired his gun in the air as he ran but fortunately eluded the vigilence of the bear by secreting himself very securely in the bushes untill Drewyer finally killed it....

...An interesting question was now to be determined; which of these rivers was the Missouri, or that river which the Minnetares call Amahte Arzzha or Missouri, and which they had described to us as approaching very near to the Columbia river. to mistake the stream... would not only loose us the whole of this season but would probably so dishearten the party that it might defeat the expedition altogether.... to this end an investigation of both streams was the first thing to be done.... thus have our cogitating faculties been busily employed all day.

...about 2 oClock P.M. Capt Clark and his party returned to Camp     had been about 40 miles up the South fork and Capt Clark thinks it will be the best way to go....

...The whole of my party to a man except myself were fully pesuaided that this river was the Missouri, but being fully of opinion that it was neither the main stream, nor that which it would be advisable for us to take, I determined to give it a name and in honour of Miss Maria W______d. called it Maria's River. it is true that the hue of the waters of this turbulent and troubled stream but illy comport with the pure celestial virtues and amiable qualifications of that lovely fair one; but on the other hand it is a noble river; one destined to become in my opinion an object of contention between the two great powers of America and Great Britin with rispect to the adjustment of the Northwestwardly boundary of the former; and that it will become one of the most interesting brances... in a commercial point of view... as it abounds with anamals of the fur kind, and most probably furnishes a safe and direct communication to that productive country of valuable furs exclusively enjoyed at present by the subjects of his Britanic Majesty....

...So our Captains conclude to assend the South fork.... they named the North fork River Mariah and the middle or little River named Tanzey (Teton) River. The water & bottoms in everry respect of each resimbles the Missourie below the forks. only Smaller....

...towards evening we had a frolick. the officers gave the party a dram, the fiddle played and they danced late &....

...from the extremity of this roling country I overlooked a most beatifull and level plain of great extent or at least 50 or sixty miles.... curious mountains presented themselves of square figures, the sides rising perpendicularly to the hight of 250 feet and appeared to be formed of yellow clay; their tops appeared to be level plains.... I did not however loose my direction to this point which soon began to make a roaring too tremendious to be mistaken for any cause short of the great falls of the Missouri, here I arrived about 12 OClock....

...from the reflection of the sun on the sprey or mist which arises from these falls there is a beatifull rainbow produced which adds not a little to the beauty of this majestically grand scenery. after wrighting this imperfect discription I again viewed the falls and was so much disgusted with the imperfect idea which it conveyed of the scene that I determined to draw my pen across and begin agin, but then reflected that I could not perhaps succeed better than pening the first impressions of the mind; I wished for the pencil of Salvator Rosa (a Titian) or the pen of Thompson, that I might be enabled to give to the enlightened world some just idea of this truly magnifficent and sublimely grand object, which has from the commencement of time been concealed from the view of civilized man; but this was fruitless and vain. I most sincerely regreted that I had not brought a crimee (camera) obscura with me by the assistance of which even I could have hoped to have done better but alas this was also out of my reach....
...My fare is really sumptuous this evening; buffaloe's humps, tongues and marrowbones, fine trout parched meal pepper and salt, and a good appetite; the last is not considered the least of the luxuries.

...hearing a tremendious roaring above me I continued my rout across the point of a hill a few hundred yards further and was again presented by one of the most beatifull objects in nature, a cascade of about fifty feet perpendicular streching at rightangles across the river from side to side to the distance of at least a quarter of a mile... I now thought that if a skillfull painter had been asked to make a beautifull cascade that he would most probably have pesented the precise immage of this one; nor could I for some time determine on which of those two great cataracts to bestoe the palm, on this or that which I had discovered yesterday; at length I determined between these two great rivals for glory that this was pleasingly beautifull, while the other was sublimely grand.

...Jo: Fields returned from Cap^t Lewis with a letter for me, Cap^t Lewis... is convinced of this being the river the Indians call the Missouri....

   ...about 2 P.M. I reached the camp found the Indian woman (Sacajawea) extreemly ill and much reduced by her indisposition. this gave me some concern as well for the poor object herself, then with a young child in her arms, as from the consideration of her being our only dependence for a friendly negociation with the Snake Indians on whom we depend for horses to assist us in our portage from the Missouri to the columbia river. I now informed Cap^t C. of my discoveries with rispect for our portage...
which I could not estimate at less than 16 miles....

...I met six men at work to prepare four sets of truck wheels with couplings, toungs and bodies, that they might be used without the bodies for transporting our canoes, or with them in transporting our baggage....

...2 hunters out in order to git Elk Skins to cover or bottom our Iron boat when we get to ab^o the falls, as we will Stand in need of it, as we leave our largest craft at this place....

   This morning I employed all hands in drawing the perogue on shore in a thick of willow bushes.... I now selected a place for a cash (cache) and set three men at work to complete it, and employed all others except those about the waggons, in overhawling airing and repacking our indian goods ammunicion, provision and stores of every discription which required inspection. examined the frame of my Iron boat and found all parts complete except one screw, which the ingenuity of Shields can readily replace, a resource which we have very frequent occasion for....

...the Indian woman was much better this morning she walked out and gathered a considerable quantity of the white apples of which she eat so heartily in their raw state, together with a considerable quantity of dryed fish without my knowledge that she complained very much and her fever again returned. I rebuked Sharbono severly for suffering her to indulge herself with such food... I now gave her broken dozes of diluted nitre untill it produced perspiration and at 10 P.M. 30 drops of laudnum which gave her tolerable nights rest....

   This morning early Cap^t Clark and myself with all the party except Serg^t Ordway Sharbono, Goodrich, York and the Indian woman, set out to pass the portage with the canoe and baggage to the Whitebear Island, where we intend that this portage shall end.    Cap^t Clark piloted us through the plains....

...this evening the men repaired their mockersons, and put on double souls to protect their feet from the prickly pears.... they are obliged to halt and rest frequently for a few moments, at every halt these poor fellows tumble down and are so much fortiegued that many of them are asleep in an instant; limping from soreness of their feet, others faint and unable to stand for a few minutes, with heat and fatiegue, yet no one complains, all go with cheerfullness....

   a fair morning. we hauled out the last canoe.... Set out eairly with a wagon & baggage.... had Some difficulty in gitting the loading up on the high plains.... we hoisted a Sail in the largest canoe which helped us much as 4 men halling at the chord with a harness. passed through high Smoth delightful plains....

...The party that returned this evening to the lower camp reached it in time to take one canoe on the plain and prepare their baggage for an early start in the morning after which such were able to shake a foot amused themselves in dancing on the green to the music of the violin which Cruzatte plays extreemly well....

   The Musquetoes are extreemly troublesome to us. ...set (Pvt. Robert) Frazier at work to sew the skins together for the covering of the boat.... and to myself I assign the duty of cook.... I collected my wood and water, boiled a large quantity of excellent dryed buffaloe meat each man a large suet dumpling by way of a treat....

...I have scarcely experienced a day since my first arrival in this quarter without experiencing some novel occurence among the party or witnessing the appearance of some uncommon object.... about 25 y^ds from the river.... the water of the fountain boil up with such force near it's center that it's surface in that part seems even higher than the surrounding earth which is firm handsom terf of fine green grass. after amusing myself about 20 minutes in examining the fountain I found myself so chilled with my wet cloaths that I determined to return and accordingly set out....

...in the afternoon their arose a storm of hard wind and rain and amazeing large hail at our Camp we measured & weighed Some of them, and Cap^t Lewis made a bowl of Ice punch of one of them    they were 7 Inches in Surcumference and weighed 3 ounces....

...Saw a black cloud rise in the west.... ran in great confusion to Camp the hail being so large and the wind so high and violent in the plains, and we being naked we were much bruuzed by the large hail. Some nearly killed    one knocked down three times....

...the rain fell like one voley of water falling from the heavens and gave us time only to get out of the way of a torrent of water which was Poreing down the hill in (to) the River with emence force tareing every thing before it takeing with it large rocks & mud, I took my gun & shot pouch in my left hand, and with the right scrambled up the hill puhing the Interpreters wife (who had her child in her arms) before me, the Interpreter himself making attempts to pull up his wife by the hand much scared and nearly without motion, we at length reached the top of the hill.... before I got out of the bottom of the reveen which was a flat dry rock when I entered it, the water was up to my waste & wet my watch, I scercly got out before it raised 10 feet deep with a torrent which (was) turrouble to behold.... I lost at the river in the torrent the large compas, an elegant fusee, Tomahawk Humbrallo...&^c....

...Men complain of being Soore this day dull and lolling about.... Great numbers of Buffalow in every direction. I think about 10,000 may be seen in a view.

   We set out early this morning with the remaining load, and proceeded on verry well to Cap^t Lewis's camp where we arrived at 3 oClock, the Day worm and party much fatigued, found Cap^t Lewis and party all buisey employed in fitting up the Iron boat.... The hunters killed three white bear (grizzlies) one large, the fore feet of which measured 9 inches across, the hind feet 11 inches 3/4 long & 7 Inches wide a bear (came) naarly catching joseph Fields chased him into the water, bear about the camp every night and seen on an (White Bear) Isl^d in the day

about 2 P.M. the party returned with the baggage, all well pleased thet they had completed the laborious task of portage.... After I had completed my observation of Equal altitudes today Cap^t Clark Myself and 12 men passed over to the large Island to hunt bear.... this brush we entered in small parties of 3 or four together and surched in every part. we found one only which made at Drewyer and he shot him in the brest at the distance of about 20 feet, the ball fortunately passed through his heart, the stroke knocked the bear down and gave Drewyer time to get out of sight; the bear changed his course we pursued him about 100 yards by the blood and found him dead.... after our return, in moving some of the baggage we caught a large rat. (Copy for D^r Barton) it was somewhat larger than the common European rat, of lighter colour of the back, the fur was very silkey close and short....

...Indians have informed us that we should shortly leave the buffaloe country after passing the falls; this I much regret for... we shal sometimes be under the necessity of fasting occasionally. and at all events the white puddings will be irretrievably lost and Sharbono out of imployment.... The current of the river looks so gentle and inviting that the men all seem anxious to be moving upwards as well as ourselves....

...have decided not to dispatch a canoe with a part of our men to S^t Louis as we had intended early in the spring. we fear also that such a measure might possibly discourage those who would in such case remain, and might possibly hazzard the fate of the expedition. we have never once hinted to any one of the party that we had such a scheme in contemplation, and all appear perfectly to have made up their minds to suceed in the expedition or purish in the attempt. we all beleive that we are now about to enter on the most perilous and difficult part of our voyage, yet I see no one repining; all appear ready to met those difficulties which await us with resolution and becoming fortitude... The Mountains to the N.W. & W. of us... might have derived their appellation of shining Mountains, from their glittering appearance when the sun shines in certain directions on the snow which covers them....

...it being the 4^th of Independence we drank the last of our ardent Spirits except a little reserved for Sickness. the fiddle put in order and the party amused themselves dancing all the evening untill about 10 oClock in a Sivel & jovil manner....

   the weather warm and cloudy.... we dispatched two other hunters to kill Elk or buffaloe for their skins to cover our baggage.... Cap^t Clark black man York is very unwell today and he gave him a doze of tartar emettic which operated very well and he was much better in the evening....

...about 9 oClock A. M. Cap^t Clark and all the men that could be Spared from Camp Set out for to go down the falls a hunting. I remained in Camp makeing leather cloathes &c.    the rest of the men at Camp was employed in makeing caol & tallow and Beese wax mixed and payed over the leather on the Iron boat &c....

...launched the boat (the experiment); she lauy like a perfect cork in the water. five men would carry her with greatest ease... late in the evening... she leaked in such manner that she would not answer. I need not add that this circumstance mortifyed me not a little... the evil was irraparable... had I only singed my Elk skins in stead of shaving them I beleive the composition (caulking) would have remained and the boat have answered.... but it was now too late to introduce a remidy and I bid adieu to my boat, and her expected services....

...So we Sank hir in the water So that She might be the easier took to peaces tomorrow. our officers conclude to build 2 canoes more So that we can carry all our baggage without the Iron boat. about 10 men got ready to up the river to build 2 canoes.

...from the head of the white bear Islands I passed in a S.W. direction and struck the Missouri at 3 Miles and continued up it to Cap^t Clark's camp where I arrived about 9 A.M. and found them busily engaged with their canoes Meat &c....
...the hunters killed three buffaloe today which were in good order. the flesh was brought in dryed the skins wer also streached for covering our baggage. we eat an emensity of meat; it requires 4 deer, an Elk and a deer, or one buffaloe, to supply us plentifully 24 hours, meat now forms our food prinsipally as we reserve our flour parched meal and corn as much as possible for the rocky mountains which we are shortly to enter.... The Musquetoes and knats are more troublesome here if possible....

   We arose very early this morning, assigned the canoes their loads and had put on board.... we find it extreemly difficult to keep the baggage of many of our men within reasonable bounds; they will be adding bulky articles of but little uce or value to them. At 10 A.M. we once more saw ourselves fairly under way much to my joy and I believe that of every individual who compose the party.... Drewyer wounded a deer which ran into the river my dog pursued caught it drowned it and brought it to the shore at our camp. we have now passed Fort Mountain (Square Butte) on our right it appears to be about ten miles distant.... it's sides stand nearly at right angles with each other and are each about a mile in extent. these are formed of a yellow clay... and rise perpendicularly to the hight of 300 feet. the top appears to be a level plain and... covered with a similar coat of grass with the plain on which it stands....

...Drewyer killed a buffaloe this morning... we halted and breakfasted on it. here for the first time I ate of the small guts of the buffaloe cooked over a blazing fire in the Indian stile without any preperation of washing or other clensing and found them very good. After breakfast I determined to leave Cap^t C. and party, and go on to the point where the river enters the Rocky Mountains....

...we were anxious now to meet with the Sosonees or snake Indians as soon as possible in order to obtain information relative to the geography of the country and also if necessary, some horses....

...this evening we entered much the most remarkable cliffs that we have yet seen. these cliffs rise from the waters edge on either side perpendicularly to the hight of (about) 1200 feet. every object here wears a dark and gloomy aspect. the tow(er)ing and projecting rocks in many places seem ready to tumble on us. the river appears to have forced it's way through this immence body of solid rock for the distance of 5 3/4 Miles of this distance a spot except one of a few yards in extent on which a man could rest the shoal of his foot... it was late in the evening before I entered this place and was obliged to continue my rout untill sometime after dark before I found a place sufficiently large to encamp my small party; at length such an one occurred on the lar^d side... from the singular appearance of this place I called it the gates of the rocky mounatains....

...Kill^d two (elk) and dined being oblige to supply dry buffalow dung in place of wood.... my feet is verry much brused & cut walking over the flint & constantly stuck full (of) Prickley pear thorns, I puled out 17 by the light of the fire to night....

...Cap^t Lewis forgot his Thurmometer where we dined     I went back for it. it Stood in the heat of the day at 80 degrees ab^o 0.... our Interpters wife tells us that She knows the country along the River up to hir nation, or the 3 forks, we are now 166 miles from the falls of the M.    Came 17 miles of it to day

...our trio of pests still invade and obstruct us on all occasions, these are the Musquetoes eye knats and prickley pears, equal to any three curses that ever poor Egypt laiboured under, except the Mahometant yoke. the men complain of being fatiegued. their labor is excessively great. I occasionly encourage them by assisting... and have learned to push a toerable good pole in their fraize....

...we killed a couple of young gees which are very abundant and fine; but as they are but small game to subsist a party on of our strength I have forbid the men shooting at them as it waists a considerable quantity of amunition and delays our progress....

   at the distance of 3 3/4 Ms. further we arrived at 9 A.M.; at the junction of the S. E. fork of the Missouri and the country opens suddonly to extensive and beatifull plains and meadows which appear to be surrounded in every direction with distant and lofty mountains; supposing this to be the three forks of the Missouri I halted the party on the Lar^d shore for breakfast. and walked up the S.E. fork about 1/2 a mile and acended the point of a high limestone clift from whence I commanded a most perfect view of the neighbouring country.... believing this to be an essntial point in geography of this western part of the Continent I determined to remain at all events untill I obtained the necessary data for fixing it's latitude Longitude &c.

...In pursuance of this resolution we called the S.W. fork, that which we meant to ascend, the Jefferson's River in honor of that illustrious personage Thomas Jefferson. (the author of our enterprize.) the Middle fork we called Madison's River in honor of James Madison, and the S.E. Fork we called Gallitin's River in honor of Albert Gallitin. the two first are 90 yards wide and the last is 70 yards. all of them run with great velocity and th(r)ow out large bodies of water.

...Cap^t Clark verry unwell. we built a bowrey for his comfort. the party in general much fatigued. Several lame.... I am employed makeing the chief part of the cloathing for the party....

   Cap^t Clark much better this morning... we reloaded our canoes and set out, ascending Jeffersons river....

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